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ENDURANCEWRITER

AKA Damon Arvid. Under-the-radar writer, musician. Let's keep it that way. The cloud novels and other highlights are being collected at DamonArvid.com. To access all the music and Avocado Sun, click the big black box below.

Fabric - Summon These Days (Music)

Life On The Boulevard

6/23/2016

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Ask anyone in Dumaguete about the Boulevard and they will smile. It is unique in the Philippines, a two mile stretch of seaside promenade framed by the old Gubierno's house (now the Honeycomb Tourist Inn) and Silliman University, with its distinctive late 19th century wood architecture (would not be out of place in Santa Cruz or Cape Cod). The town, as they say, has potential. Yet it is also at the cusp of disaster––traffic, building, destruction of classic small city seaside.

Yin and yang,  how to best triangulate business booster needs with those of the people and the environment? How to create the fabled win-win we talked about late nights at MIIS?  

Can't wait to start the fabric research novel Habagat in Boracay.


I already have my favorite spots in Dumaguete. One of the things I love about traveling is that it gives me the opportunity to explore, eat, talk with nee people. Here are a few places that could be incorporated into the prospective Philippine novel:
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Honeycomb - mucho juju, mojo.
• The Honeycomb, with its stories of buried Spanish gold, exorcized ghosts, Japanese hangings during WWII, and a suitably scrappy poker game out back. 

* The tastefully reimagined Paseo building and Infinitea, where I have been struggling with strategies to avoid using  a plastic cup and straw with every visit (coffee and tea work, and even bubble tea can be served in a mug). Avoiding sugar is a whole 'nother matter.

Incidentally, this is where I have been acquainting myself with Justin Beiber and Drake on a daily basis. Opposed to Autotune singers who dance to beats in principle, I agree with Eric Clapton, who initially scoffed when his daughter announced she was a Belieber. There are songwriting/production merits. 


* Andalou, a kebab stand run by Sebastian, who is from the Mediterranean part of Turkey and describes days spent sitting on the street playing backgammon. He makes an awesome yoghurt with the sour liquid on the top that you stir through a layer of fatty, half solid creamy material (what heretics prefer and refer to as Greek yoghurt)  to create a perfectly tart, spoon dripping concoction. Sebastian swears that eating yoghurt every day is why his father has lived past 100. 

* The Blue Monkey, both locations, with their wildly varying quality of grilled chicken. 

* Abby's by Pinky, which is a two-level hobbit dwelling of a coffee shop, integrating driftwood and a crazy tight spiral staircase. Abby is the coffee shop owner and Pinky is her cousin and baker, known for the second-best revel bars in town. All the staff wear pink shirts, natch. 

* Xien tailor across the street, where a very patient seamstress listened to me describe the perfect denim strap case for my flutes (and ceramics bag for my mom). And delivered.
* Atie Josie, literally "Aunt Josie" in the local lingo. Set inside an old-style yard of a wood house, with aquarium fish arrayed. Grilling up traditional native (free-range, home raised) chicken and pork BBQ sticks, 5 pesos each. Served over really nice rice, the soy sauce/calamansi combo is exquisite. You can eat with your fingers, take a piece of barbecue with a pinch of rice.

*Hayahay, where I will probably jam a bit with the reggae/ska bands tonight. Surf taco has a decent 2 for 1 avocado taco on whole grain tortilla on Wed. 

*Jing-Jing, a strictly local canteen where you can get a traditional butter squash or jack fruit dish with rice for 50 pesos.

*Naturally Negros (run by the deaf), which has the most amazing Guilihan honey and atchara, as well as pure coconut oil and fresh smoked mozzerella. 

* Rollin' Pin, the only place in Dumaguete that plays anything remotely cool to my ears (old school Red Hot Chili Peppers, a British reggae remake of "Police and Thieves." They do an adequate coffee, a nicely tart green mango juice, and have freshly baked  bagels and Olive Ciabatta. Frequented by hip academics, artists, school kids, and slackers.

*XO Bookshoppe, an unreformed old-school bookstore and lending library. Run by a writer who talks of visitations. A story unto itself. 

*The slightly seedy, yet family friendly Boulevard, where locals take walks and forget for a time they live in an expanding city. 

In one critical way Dumaguete has passed my test of cool––I can comfortably sit and watch the boats come and go from the port, leg dangling over water (lost a sandal), humming "Dock of the Bay." Crabs and wharf rats the size of small dogs scurrying below. Whole families from Mindanao in colorful garb, eternally pestering for five pesos. 

I'll post more pics of eh classic Dumaguete, which I hope fabric would help preserve, next time.

​#endwriter 
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    Damon Arvid

    Author of Arisugawa Park. Fabric. Life.

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